
2) So when you hear a squeak, what is happening? Generally you are hearing a loose nail sliding in and out of its hole. Over time, swelling and shrinking of the wood causes these nails to become loose. To eliminate these squeaks, all we have to do is stop the "give" in the floor.
In our house, we had an unfinished basement that allowed full access to the floor joists and subfloor. Hopefully you also have access via a basement or crawlspace.

In my house, the loudest squeaks were the result of loose nails in connecting the subfloor and joist. This is caused by a warping of the joist. As said earlier, to eliminate the squeak you must eliminate the movement.
For most of these squeaks, simply toe nailing the joist to the subfloor using long screws did the trick. I purchased a product for sale online called, Squeak Relief. As you will see, it's a bracket that allows you to effectively toenail the joist to the subfloor. In my opinion, these brackets seemed unnecessary and too expensive for something I could accomplish with a handful of 3 inch screws.
***Sometimes the joist may have warped significantly. In areas where I could actually see a 1/8 inch or more gap between the subfloor and joist, I used shims. It's important that you use a good wood glue where shims are needed. Simply coat the shim with wood glue before using it to fill the gap. If you do not apply glue to the shims, they will wiggle out over time and the squeak will reappear.***
4) After I eliminated the loud, subfloor/joist squeaks my floor was much improved, but I still had some popping caused by individual boards not being secured to the subfloor. When your finished floor was installed, the wood boards were nailed snugly to the subfloor. Over time, these nails or staples can come loose. Loose boards can result in squeaks or rubbing sounds as they shift.
So, to eliminate this problem, one must re-attach the finished floor to the subfloor. This can be done with nailing from above (countersinking nails and patching with wood putty), but in my case I chose to work from below. In order to reattach the subfloor to the finished floor, I used 1 1/2 inch screws and screwed directly through the subfloor and into the floorboards. I made sure the size screw I selected would grab the finished floor but not pierce all the way through it.
5) So, by maintaining a consistent humidity level, and making the different layers of the floor snug again, my floor is significantly less noisy. Hopefully this helped you in your flooring journey.
Also, I found this Bob Vila video quite helpful. I spent hours scouring the web looking for solutions and this video was the best resource I found.